Mussels are sometimes called "the oysters of the poor," which goes to show that poverty can be not only dignified, as some people claim, but for brief periods even endurable. These delicious mollusks, do, however, deteriorate rapidly and, if uncooked, may be the cause of infections.
To test mussels for freshness, try to slide the two halves of the shell across each other. If they budge, the shell is probably filled with mud, not mussel. Discard any mussels with broken shells or shells that will not close after placement in the freezer a minute or two. Mussels are distinguished by a beard which is usually clipped off with scissors just before cooking.
Wash mussels in a colander under running water. Scrub them with a stiff brush and prepare as for clams - see About Clams. Both fresh and canned mussels may be sandy.
Mussels may be steamed, removed from the shell, debearded and served much like oysters or clams; or served with a sauce, shell and all. It is permissable - no doubt because it is necessary - to separate the shells by hand. Gourmets suggest that a half shell be used to spoon up the liquor to the last drop.
For 4 servings allow about 1 quart undrained shucked or 3 quarts unshucked mussels.