The Secret Ingredients

I grew up in Boston. My grandparents lived in the apartment with us, and our whole family life centered around the kitchen. As soon as you walked into the house, there was a meal on the table, you sat down and talked and ate. When one meal was finished, the next was in preparation.

My grandmother taught my mother to cook, and my mother taught me this pickled herring. When she came out to California, I watched her make it and took careful notes. Then I made it myself, using the exact measurements I had recorded. But it didn't work out perfectly for me. Finally, I came to the conclusion that the missing ingredients was my mother's touch. However, everybody loved my herring - especially my mother. She felt that hers had always been good but what it needed was my touch.

Soak herring whole overnight. Remove skin and entrails. Filet herring and cut into pieces; or cut into slices through bone. Place herring in layers alternating with the sliced onions. Combine vinegar, water, sugar and sour cream. Pour over herring. Store in refrigerator for a day or two before serving.

If you like it sweeter, add more sugar; sour, add vinegar. If you wish, omit sour cream in the pickling liquid. Instead, add it to the drained pickled herring when ready to serve. A tablespoon of whole pickling spice added to the marinade adds zest.